How do you identify and eliminate green algae in a water tank or pool?
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A commercial client (water park-tubing) is experiencing a problem with green algae bloom during heat waves (eutrophication). They’d like to carry out analyses of the water in the tank to check for possible danger to humans.
What kind of analysis would enable them to identify the type of algae and confirm whether it is in fact harmful? (outside lab?)
How to quickly and safely eliminate the algae? (aeration, chlorination, etc.) )
Thank you for getting back to me.
I am only familiar with Blue Green Algae that produces Mytotoxin, not something you want to drink, but something a good lab can find. We treat our Raw water with Copper Sulphate, but have to wait 14 days for potability as when you kill it, it releases all the toxin at once.
Aeration is the best preventative measure I have seen, perhaps try some Gill feeding fish (Silver Carp come to mind) as a Green alternative to a chemical kill off would get "Brownie Points" with some folks :-)
Sorry for the delay.. Trout hate it, but carp are pretty tough, Chlorinating any organic is always undesirable and the de-chlorinating agents are ugly as well. BUT, if your climate permits, you can De-chlorinate through a waterfall or sprayer setup.
Aeration, and limiting sunlight exposure can help prevent this from happening. To kill off the algae, there are chemical options, UV treatments as well as many "green" options. You might also consider multi-stage filtering finished with a reverse osmosis process which can help to create optimum drinking water.
Be sure to check the quality of the water before drinking to make sure the toxins from the algae are taken care of before using the water.
If chlorine is not effective, is it because it is not a chlorine solution suited to this type of installation?
For swimming pools, you can use both stabilized and unstabilized chlorine.
Chlorine stabilized using cyanuric acid can resist UV radiation (unstabilized chlorine can degrade by 70% in 2 h if it is subjected to UV radiation). However, be careful not to exceed 70 mg/L of stabilizer, because chlorine then becomes ineffective and the proliferation of algae resumes. For a swimming pool, the standard level for free chlorine is between 2 and 4 mg/L in the case of stabilized chlorine.
Otherwise, as is done with some water fountains, you could use a UV reactor, followed by disinfection via hydrogen peroxide.
Regarding identification of the type of algae, many labs can do that.
Sodium hypochlorite (bleach) is usually pretty good against algae. You can also try calcium hypochlorite; I use it in on a swimming pool. If you haven't already done so, you might want to check to see if you have any rusty equipment; alternatively UV lamps, effective action but not long-lasting.
I am sure every county has a test lab or at the least a State test lab. I would say the quickest, most reliable, and 100% safe is microbial intervention. As you have mentioned we are dealing with an algae/ a organic life form which feeds on the stagnate waters newly formed compounds. Try using an RNA microbial group species. The organic mater compounds will be reduced into their elemental state. Algae will starve to death. The new dead organic mater will become food for the microbes. The main side effect is the oxygen level will greatly increase. Aquatic life plant and animal/fish will return unusually fast.